Olivier Durbano is not a new face in the niche perfume industry, having started his line way before niche became fashionable. He has a spiritual approach to fragrance and not only does he take inspiration from the energy of stones, but he also gets closer to the roots of fragrance with the constant use of incense. His works are always smoky and earthy, mineral and ethereal. One thing I can say for sure: he has his very intrinsic signature imprinted in each creation and he never does anything without a reason. Even if that reason is unexplainable. Here is a small conversation me and Olivier had between meetings and greetings at his booth in the last edition of the Esxence expo in Milan.
Olivier Durbano fragrances and jewelry at Esxence 2015
Miguel Matos:
You are a creator of objects from stones. Perfumes and jewels. Did you start as a jeweler or as a perfumer?
Olivier Durbano:
As none of those. I studied in the Architecture school where I learned how to create things and how to make sense with them. Later on, I started to create necklaces and that represented coming back to the stones in my life. I thought about the symbolism and energy of the stones and smell made sense to me.
Miguel:
Your work is always very philosophical and mystical. Do you want to imagine and create the smell of a stone?
Olivier:
No, not really. It's not about the smell of a stone. If you think about the legends and symbols associated with a particular stone, you can have many images in your mind and it's like a movie. With my perfumes I try to translate what I can imagine in these movies.
Olivier Durbano Lapis Philosophorum
Miguel:
There's always incense in your perfumes. Why?
Olivier:
Incense relates to my inspiration. There is a close link between stones and incense in history and legends.
Miguel:
What's your creative process in perfumes like?
Olivier:
First of all I take my time. That's why for me it's totally logical and coherent to launch only one perfume a year. Everybody expects new things all the time, but that's not the most important thing for me. New is just new.
Miguel:
It also has to be good.
Olivier:
Yes, and creative and fulfilling. That's why I need time, one year of my life when I try to understand something and dedicate myself to personal knowledge. At first I search for an idea. When I find it, I read a lot of things, take my time with the stone ... Sometimes there is one ingredient that comes from an image, an idea. When I have an evidence about an ingredient, I write a list of components step by step. When I feel that the list is complete that is the right time to start mixing. But it's a very slow process, it takes time.
An Amethyst necklace by Olivier Durbano
Miguel:
Do you write all the formulas beforehand and only after that do you experiment with the essences?
Olivier:
After thinking about the materials and the formula, I start smelling all the ingredients individually. With time and patience I begin to realize the proportions. More of this one, less of that one ... Then I ask the chemists to do the mix for me and write the final formulation. Step by step, because I only launch one perfume a year, in September.
Miguel:
So you are working on the next September launch?
Olivier:
Yes, but I can't tell you anything yet. I prefer to talk about it only when it's finished.
Miguel:
Do you specifically identify yourself with any of your perfumes, personally?
Olivier:
Since last September, it's Promethée, because it's my actuality. It's me right now.
Miguel:
Did any of your fragrances presented themselves as an especially difficult process?
Olivier:
I can't tell you that. When you present your creation, nobody has to know if it was hard, if you were feeling lonely, sad or tired.
Miguel:
You have to judge it for what it is.
Olivier:
Sure!
Miguel and Olivier, Esxence 2015
Miguel:
Is there some kind of energy working with you?
Olivier:
When you are interested in what you are doing, when you create something, you are not alone. I am a kind of medium and perfume is a medium too. So it's me but it's not only me. The work is mine, but it's not only mine. I like to explain what I do but after that, if you wear one of my creations and you tell me a totally different story, apart from my inspiration, I am happy, too. If you like it and wear it it's because you feel something. You can think whatever you want about it. I want my inspiration to create images, emotions and experiences.
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